Because they're grown in fields, though, not bogs, Vermont cranberries need to be watered quite frequently, especially if we have a summer and fall like we just experienced. Ample watering produces plump, tart, and brilliantly red cranberries that are perfect for the Thanksgiving table.
But what to make with this gorgeous fruit, one of the few
that’s native to North America? Everyone has their favorite recipe, from
traditional sweet-tart sauces to elegant compotes to zesty relishes.
Cranberries can be baked into pies, breads, and scones, mixed into stuffings,
or tossed with salads, but my favorite thing to make with them is chutney. I
discovered this preparation years ago when I was planning my first Thanksgiving
dinner in our then new home. In the weeks leading up to the holiday, I scoured
cookbooks (this was before recipes became so searchable online), looking for
the perfect recipes to create my own take on the traditional meal.
I was going through a phase where I was making a lot of
Indian food, so Martha Stewart’s Cranberry Chutney appealed to me. I’ve always
had good success with her recipes and they aren’t too challenging to pull off.
Over the years I’ve adapted the recipe to my own taste, so now it’s quite
different from the original. That's the case with a lot of my favorite recipes,
and to me this experimentation and creativity is one of the best aspects of
cooking. With Martha’s chutney (which I now call Cranberry Pear Chutney), I add
roasted pears instead of dried cranberries and cherries,
and use maple syrup instead of brown sugar. I also add
minced shallots along with the garlic
and use less vinegar than she calls for. I keep the chopped fresh
ginger,
which is essential to the flavor burst this chutney brings to
the Thanksgiving plate, but I add more dried spices than just the cinnamon in
the original recipe. Allspice, cloves, and cardamom all lend complexity (and a
hint of the pie yet to come!). My secret
ingredient, though, is freshly grated nutmeg.
I’m a big fan of nutmeg at this time of year, but it’s imperative
that it be freshly grated. It imparts warmth and depth to many dishes, and not
necessarily ones that are sweet. By the way, in case you happened to notice
(and I hope you did), I bought a new camera—woot woot!—and am having fun
getting to know it. It’s a huge improvement over the one I had been using.
What I love about this chutney is the blend and balance of
flavors: tart (cranberries), sweet (pears,
maple syrup, and orange juice), acidic (apple cider vinegar), savory (garlic
and shallots), and spicy (ginger and the other spices).
They all meld together
into a beautiful complement to the turkey and stuffing and other irresistible sides
on the Thanksgiving table.
The chutney is also delicious on a turkey sandwich
the following day, or any day, for that matter.
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!
Cranberry Pear Chutney (with a nod to Martha Stewart)
2 Bosc pears, cored and chopped into small pieces
2 T olive oil
1 lb. fresh cranberries, washed
1 cup orange juice
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 shallot, minced
2 T chopped fresh ginger
½ cup maple syrup
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
1 t cinnamon
½ t allspice
½ t cardamom
½ t freshly grated
nutmeg
A pinch of cloves
Preheat oven to 425˚ roast. Toss chopped pears in
olive oil and spread them out on a baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, stirring
once to brown them evenly.
While pears are roasting, combine all the
remaining ingredients in a large, nonreactive saucepan and simmer over
medium-low heat, stirring every so often. Simmer for 25 minutes, until the liquid
has blended in with the cranberries and the chutney is thick. Add pears and
stir to combine.
The chutney will keep in for two weeks in a sealed
container in the refrigerator.
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