A continuous working farm since it was established, Shelburne
Farms was once considered one of the foremost model agricultural estates in the
country. Later generations, however, found the financial challenges of
maintaining the farm to be insurmountable, so in 1972 they transformed the
estate into a nonprofit organization dedicated to conservation education.
Thanks to their foresight and generosity, the grounds are now accessible to the
public for walking, hiking, and cross country skiing. The organization also offers
educational programs for children and adults to learn about stewardship
and sustainability.
Shelburne Farms’ 1400 acres are home to a herd of grass-fed
Brown Swiss cows,
a flock of sheep,
the most gorgeous chickens I’ve ever seen,
and a collection of other animals who live at the Farm
Barn.
The Farm Barn is surely the poshest barn in existence, with the animals in residence here freshly scrubbed and ready for petting by curious
children.
Shelburne Farms is also home to a dairy and a cheesemaking facility,
where award-winning cheddar is made from milk produced by the Brown Swiss cows.
In case you want some bread to go with that cheese, O Bread Bakery, an artisan
bakery, is just a couple doors down.
What was once the family’s country estate on the grounds is
now an Inn featuring one of the best restaurant’s in the state. The building is
spectacular and perched on a rise above Lake Champlain, offering some of the
best sunsets in the state as well. In operation only during the summer months
(there’s no heating system in the building), the restaurant serves high end
cuisine created mostly from food produced on the farm. If it doesn’t come
from the farm, then it comes from as close by as possible.
In my lifetime roster of Top 10 Places to Dine, the Inn at Shelburne Farms holds a secure position. A “special occasion” restaurant for my
family, the Inn has been the setting for birthday celebrations, graduations,
Mother’s Days, and on this particular occasion a few weeks ago, a fête to mark the end of an excellent school year for the girls. They both love to
eat out in fine restaurants too, so this wasn’t just an excuse for me and Chris
to enjoy a meal at the Inn. Isabel would soon be departing for a month in
New York City, so this was a grand send-off meal as well.
Upon arrival, we debated between a table outside on the
patio with a view of the lake, or in the Dining Room, which was the Webb family's original
dining room. Since we were in
the middle of an early summer heat wave, we opted for inside. With its red
fabric walls, immense marble fireplaces, and ornate fixtures, this opulent
room is a glimpse into how the industrialist “royals” lived during the
Gilded Age. We’ve been bringing the girls here since they were babies, and when
I slide into my seat I recall a few particular Mother’s Day brunches
when I was relieved to make it through the meal with no glasses overturned or
screaming tantrums erupted.
Because of the heat wave, a bottle of Côtes
de Provence rosé was in order.
We nibbled on ciabatta from O Bread Bakery and sweet butter
from the Farm’s dairy as we awaited our appetizer. Vichyssoise with thyme oil
and fried garlic greens provided a cool, creamy start to the meal. All the food
at the Inn is beautiful to behold, but not in an ostentatious way. This flower
design on the surface of the soup showcases Chef David Hugo’s subtle artistry.
For my entrée, I chose the pan seared day boat scallops,
which are always hard to resist when I find them on a menu. These were
perfectly seared—caramelized on the outside, meltingly tender inside—and were served with
fava beans (another summer favorite), snow peas, and oh so good warm lobster
salad. A chickpea purée and bright chimichurri sauce added depth and brightness.
Chris has a hard time resisting pork, especially smoky pork, so he went with the slow-cooked smoked pork loin with rhubarb chutney,
roasted root vegetables, and braised greens. He reluctantly gave me a taste of his
succulent meat, which was mildly smoky and balanced nicely by the tart chutney.
Faye was happy with her slow-cooked roast beef
with a green garlic demi-glace, accompanied by cheddar mashed potatoes and
braised greens. The cheddar mashed potatoes were especially appreciated. And Isabel savored her roasted sea bass served over a puréed
tomato sauce. It came with a spiced rice cake and fava and green beans. A
send-off meal to remember.
For dessert, the four of us shared the caramel meringue tart,
which satisfied both our eyes and our taste buds with its candied macadamia
nuts, caramel pastry cream, and flourishes of honeyberry sauce.
We always end our meal with a stroll through the Inn’s formal
gardens, currently in the process of being restored to their early glory. Edging
the lake, a rose garden, rows of luscious peonies, a lily pool, antique statuary, and robust
perennial beds grace a series of terraced green spaces.
I once asked one of the
gardeners what their secret was to such outsized flowers and was told it was
simply kitchen compost. That and the garden’s temperate location above the
lake, where a curving balustrade invites guests to linger over the sunset.
We had the privilege of attending a wedding here once and, not
surprisingly, it was exquisite. Both girls have proclaimed that this is where
they’d like to be married, but alas they’ll need to be engaged to a modern day “royal”
in order for that to be a possibility. As for me, I’m perfectly content to have dinner at the Inn once or twice a season and then stroll the
gardens taking in the view, and the riches of family.
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